What is cashmere?
Cashmere is a thin, soft, and finely textured knit fabric made from the fibers brushed from the undercoat of cashmere goats. It gets its name from the Kashmir region of northern India and is distinct from the fibers harvested from sheep that make wool. Even though they’re related materials, cashmere is three times more insulating than wool. It’s also naturally more breathable.
Why is cashmere so expensive?
The more expensive a cashmere sweater is, the more you can denote from its laborious brushing and production process.
Cashmere is only collected as little as once a year, depending on the area, and it can take approximately 4-5 fully grown cashmere goats to make just one sweater. The goats’ hair is brushed into “tops.” Luxury brands like Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli bid on the premium tops, which are the cleanest and palest in color.
In the US, cashmere must meet a certain criteria:
- The average diameter of the fiber cannot exceed 19 micrometers.
- The product cannot contain more than 3% by weight of cashmere fibers with average diameters that exceed 30 micrometers.
100% cashmere is more sustainable than, say, polyester. Still, it does take a toll on the environment, and the available quantity relies on the well-being of goat herds, their habitat, and their caretakers. As with any naturally regenerative resource, paying more means investing in the quality of life for those who produce it.
How do you determine the “grade” or quality of cashmere used in a sweater?
Cashmere is graded according to the diameter and length of the fibers. Grade A cashmere uses ultra-fine fibers that are a minimum of 14 microns thick, which feel softer and resist pilling better. Grades B and C cashmere uses thicker fibers that feel less smooth.
How should I store my cashmere sweaters?
Cashmere sweaters can last you a lifetime with the right care. Hanging cashmere sweaters will make them stretch, so you should instead keep them folded in a drawer. But beware: this is exactly where hungry moths can be found lying in wait. Keep them at bay with cedar blocks to prevent them from chewing holes through your cashmere clothing.
How does “knit gauge” affect the comfort of the sweater?
“Gauge” refers to the number of stitches per inch. A higher gauge usually means a lighter fabric. 16-gauge sweaters feel smoother and have a more structured finish, which is ideal for workwear and layering. Looser gauges, like a 5-gauge, have a more casual fit, but may stretch out faster. If you prefer these, look for those with ribbing around cuffs and hems which should help maintain its shape.
What does “ply” mean and how does it affect durability?
“Ply” refers to the number of yarn strands twisted together. The more ply, the more dense the fabric. 2-ply cashmere is warmer and more dense than single-ply. I love how single-ply sweaters have a delicate, airy, feel, but 2-ply offers a better balance between softness and structure in the long run.
