LA Boomer Retired to Bordeaux, France Lives Off $1,428 Social Security

Celestine Cooley was 34 years old when she took her first trip to France. Forty years ago, she and a friend criss-crossed the country, from Paris to Cannes, and she quickly fell in love with the culture and way of life.

“The moment we stepped off the train in the train station at Gare du Nord, I knew that France was where I was supposed to live,” Cooley, 74, told BI. “It was a magical trip.”

She’s finally made her Francophone dream a reality. In early 2024, shortly after retiring from her nearly 50-year career as an executive assistant in Hollywood, she booked a one-way flight to France. Since then, she’s made the southwestern city of Bordeaux her new home. She said she’s never been happier — and has no desire to move back to the US.

“I’m living a fuller, better, and less expensive life here,” she said. “I love living in this beautiful city.”

Like many Americans, Cooley couldn’t afford to retire in a pricey American city on her $1,428 monthly Social Security payments without relying heavily on her limited retirement savings. Living in Los Angeles had become increasingly unaffordable, particularly as a lifelong renter.

Cooley’s not alone in looking for the American dream abroad. She’s part of a wave of retirees, young families, and digital nomads, escaping the snowballing cost of living in the US for more affordable lives abroad.

Cooley got serious about planning the move when the pandemic hit. Working remotely, she spent her spare time learning French and researching the logistics of retiring there. She eventually visited six French cities, including Paris and Nice, and decided Bordeaux was the best fit. She loved the relaxed, small-town feel, walkable and ancient neighborhoods, and friendly vibe.

“I wanted to go somewhere where it’s quiet, laid back, and I could really feel like I’m at peace,” she said. “I never knew what peace truly felt like until I moved to Bordeaux.”

The cost of living is also much lower in Bordeaux than in LA. Cooley pays 780 euros a month in rent — about $890 — for her small one-bedroom apartment, which she shares with her chihuahua, Colonel. She previously paid nearly $1,300 in Van Nuys, her LA neighborhood. With cheaper healthcare and food, and no car payments, life in general is significantly more affordable than it was in LA, Cooley said.

Cooley’s neighborhood, Chartrons, is a so-called “five-minute city,” meaning much of what she needs — from groceries, to her doctor and veterinarian, to shops and restaurants — is a short walk away. She walks, bikes, takes the tram and bus around the city, and hops on regional trains to explore other parts of France. She said she feels safe walking alone, even late at night after concerts at a local jazz club. “I never did that in LA — it was scary,” she added.

It doesn’t hurt that Bordeaux is also world-famous for its grapes. A self-described “wine-o,” Cooley loves to visit various vineyards in the region for wine tastings.

Are you struggling to afford your housing costs? Share your experience with this reporter at [email protected].

She’s quickly made lots of new friends, connecting with strangers at the farmers’ market and with her neighbors and fellow expats. She’s joined two expat social clubs and said her friends are diverse in age and background. She’s constantly invited to dinner parties, luncheons, and cultural events.

“I find that I’m more active here now than I was back in LA over the last 10 years,” she said.

And she’s felt welcomed by the French people.

“As a Black woman, I feel more accepted here in France than I ever felt throughout my over 70 years of living in the United States,” she said. “Everything about living here is just better for me, and I know it’s better for a lot of people.”

Over the last year, Cooley has kept her friends and family back in the US updated on her new life with regular Facebook posts. Those reflections have turned into something of a hobby, and now, she’s transforming them into a book, titled “A Boomer in Bordeaux.”

She credits her passion for writing, traveling, and building relationships, as well as her independent, introverted streak, with her happy retirement.

“At this time in my life, where most people would say, ‘I’m tired, I don’t know what else to do,’ I can think of plenty to do,” Cooley said. “There’s so much more that I want to do.”